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The best places to climb in Costa Blanca

My Top 10 favourite places to rock climb in Costa Blanca.

We all crave dry rock and some Winter sun, in no particular order as they all have there own uniqueness. We visited these wonderful crags during the Winter months of November and December 2021, the perfect time to soak up some vitamin D.

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1. Mula

Just beneath the dam was a sheltered gentle slab called La Presa with good climbs. You can easily rack up the climbing miles here as we smashed out 9 routes in an afternoon.

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2. Leyva

Big wall climbing!

The giant wall stands out unlike anything I’ve seen before. You can’t take your eyes off the magnificent cliffs as you walk on by, it’s incredible. We climbed Carillo-Cantabelle, a Rockfax Top 50 and it was by far the most memorable multi-pitch in Costa Blanca.

3. Orihuela

This place is rock heaven, a great mountainous setting with some steep sustained pitches. A great place to spend a day or two experiencing the Via Ferrata’s and hiking the breathtaking PVC routes up to the summit of

4. Sella

Forest bathing.

Hidden in the valley, dominating the forest is a series of South facing hidden walls. We climbed some newly developed routes here, great fun. Belaying in the shaded trees in the heat of the day is a blessing.

5. Bellús

Set your alarm, an early morning climb here is best to avoid the crowds. Parking is limited but with so many routes to choose from you are spoilt for choice and I’m sure you could tuck yourself away and find a quiet spot or two.

6. Gandia

Road side climbing.

We were passing through this area and decided to see what this place was all about.

7. Puig Campana

The mighty peak!

The famous 405m Multi-pitch climb Espolón Central is a full day out. This impressive 1,406m mountain dominates Benidorm, seen from the coast with it’s endless lists of routes. To see what this peak has to offer a hike up and around before climbed to search for the best approach and descent is recommended to avoid getting stuck in the dark.

8. Echo Valley

The was one of my favourite crags, the Echo 1.5 Lower and Upper have a small section of great lower grade routes on excellent quality rock, most are two star classics so this place is well worth a visit. A relaxing setting with incredible valley views, ideal for those learning to climb.

9. Marin

This crag was a beautiful little find, just outside Elda is a very rewarding crag with a variety of routes, including some Rockfax Top 50 multi-pitch climbs. we spend a couple of days here as the crag was easily accessible.

10. Toix

Coastal beauty.

A very popular crag and most of the climbs are polished, however there are one or two hidden gems, like the two star Enérgico 6a+.
To get the most out of this area I highly recommend the Toix Ridge, the ridge it’s self is so much fun. It’s exposed but not difficult and the coastal views are spectacular.

10. Sax

A hidden gem!

You can’t miss the tall tower as your park up. The ascent to the crag is steep but hang on in there, it’s worth it. The Penas del Rey is mostly multi-pitch but we climbed only the first pitches as the weather turned on us. There is plenty to explore here.

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